Iconic PopThe '80s beat goes on... This season's most daring catwalks enjoyed an explosive stop-over in the decade that colour remembered. "The '80s were about putting a face on..." says MAC Make-up Artist Lyne Desnoyers, "In 2009; it's more about projecting an image than creating a face." Siouxsie Sioux, Debbie Harry and Boy George influences were evident in kaleidoscopic splashes on satiny skin, whilst sculpted faces tuned into the classic '80s play on proportion. Take note - let your face be your canvas and break all the rules.
Geisha Graphics Beauty travelled farther East this season with references to Japanese fiction popping up at Betty Jackson and Dior. Make like Manga and lift your look straight outta Japanese comic books, for a twisted take on colour and cartoon á la Ashish, or opt for a dreamier approach with a cherry blossom palette, adopted by Make-up Artist Romi Soleimani for Adam; "[This look is] inspired by Japanese watercolour and the way the colours mix, diffuse and blend." Either way, we intrepid beauty junkies can't get enough of this contemporary turn on the classic Geisha. Konnichiwa!
...Twilight...The nation's current obsession with all things 'Vampire' has extended to the realms of beauty as catwalks showcased stony, sculptured faces with ethereal complexions and berry stained lips. "Highlighting and contouring is seriously back," says Make-up Artist Charlotte Tilbury, "...thinking about the contrasts between matte and shimmer, and light versus dark." Whilst faces at Alessandro Dell' Acqua teamed icy shimmer with burnished red for an other-worldly, statue-style finish, Moschino Cheap & Chic teamed waxy skin and wet-look eyes with Vampire-esque just-bitten pouts. This look has all the qualities of a classic Gothic romance, so get ready to fall in love Twilight-style.
Glam Grunge This is '90s grunge gone glamorous; pure rock 'n' roll, but sexy rather than sullied - and much more attitude driven. Think black, greasy, and more smudgy than smoky, for a finish that's young, nasty and stinking of rock chick excess. "It's Chrissie Hynde with too much eyeliner," explains Gordon Espinet, who nailed this trend for both DSquared² and Vivienne Westwood Red Label, "LA girls walk of shame make-up. It's young Hollywood the morning after the night before. Her make-up is melted, yet...gorgeous."
Living DollFor the less intrepid trend-watcher, catwalks were awash with fresh, young, pretty-in-pink painted dolls. DKNY and Kenzo flaunted a 'waxy' perfection finish to skin with rose-bud blush and bumblegum pink lips whilst Erdem transformed models into Russian dolls with haphazard top knots and a red dolly pout. "It's the idea of exaggerating human beauty," says Make-up Artist Gordon Espinet - think whimsical, pixie-like perfection; big eyes, heart-shaped lips and pretty-girl flushes. As Charlotte Tilbury adds "It's pretty, fresh, natural beauty...a girl running around the forest as if she's been eating berries all afternoon."